Scoops Reports 2012 - 10 March Corsewall – Kirkcolm

10 March Corsewall – Kirkcolm  Report by Jim Deans

Thomas was driving the Discovery when he and Cath picked me up at the crossroads at 9am and we collected Isobel at Sandhead from where he drove directly to Corsewall.  His car was the best one for the purpose – others who arrived a bit later got a bit bogged down on the soft ground and had to have help in getting extricated!  I was too late to take photos as I had immediately set off to take photos around and about as the waves were crashing over the rocks throwing up some very photogenic surf!

A dry but slightly overcast morning saw 21 walkers gather at the parking area by Corsewall lighthouse for the walk to Kirkcolm.  It was a good crowd who had turned out for today’s walk, including Catherine Makepiece, Carl and Shona who had not walked with us for months, Jim, who led the walk, Richard, the backup leader, Mary, Alex, Peter, Ken, Margaret, Audrey, Rachel, Linda, Leslie, Mary (Cairnryan), Duncan and Charlotte. Although there was little wind, the incoming tide created spectacular waves to the delight of the group’s photographers; this was a feature for much of the walk.

From the walk start to the entrance to Loch Ryan at Milleur Point the going was varied and testing. Though designated as a coastal walk, there is no apparent path. Muddy cattle tracks, rocky clambers and scrambles, steep grassy inclines, burns, and bogs were the order of the day and progress was steady. Picturesque waterfalls created a pleasant diversion from the rough terrain.  

Iron Age forts at Dunskirloch and Caspin were passed en route. Also en route at Port Mullin, was the now derelict cottage once occupied by Bernard (Barney) McGhee. An item from the Free Press 12th of January 1905 read "Death of Nonagenarian. Kirkcolm has lost its oldest inhabitant by the death of Bernard McGhee which took place at the Old Mill Port Mullen, on 2nd inst. Bernard had reached the advanced age of 95, and died on his birthday within a few yards of where he was born. For 42 years he occupied the Old Mill and acted as assistant keeper at Corsewall for 28 years. The deceased had been over 70 years a member of Kirkcolm Parish Church which he attended regularly as long as he was able to walk. He was much respected in the Parish."

At Port Leen, the cart track used for transporting sea kelp was easily identified. Here too, a well built stone wall at the end of the track caused speculation as to its use.

Celandine, primroses and coastal lichens were among the flora and fauna that added colour to the walk.  Among the sea birds spotted were gannets, shags, herring gulls, oyster catchers and curlews. Fox, deer, hare and rabbits also made an appearance.

Ferries in and out of Loch Ryan were rarely out of the picture. Distant views were often non-existent, but at various times Ireland, the Mull of Kintyre, Arran and the Ayrshire coast put in an appearance.  Rounding Milleur Point, lunch was taken on a rocky outcrop on the shoreline of Loch Ryan, where pleasant views over to Finnarts Bay were enjoyed.

I constantly had to catch up with the others as I had to tear myself away from taking photos of the sea, surf and rocks.  It was the most amazing day during which I purred constantly.  The constant interest of the surroundings and the varying surfaces over which we walked kept me occupied for hours but it was a great relief when we did at last stop for lunch some time after 1pm.  Despite the occasional dishing out of sweets my blood sugar level got very low after noon!  The spot chosen for the lunch break was a good one from where to see the comings and goings of the ferries.

After lunch and with a close up view of the P & O ferry, the European Causeway, the cliff top path south was taken.  Crossing the geological features of the Beef Barrel and McMeckans Rocks, Lady Bay was reached. A large flock of noisy geese flew overhead.  A sandy beach, a track and a winding rocky path were now followed past the bothies at Portmore to reach Jamieson's Point and Portbeg.

Sometime during the day those of us trailing towards the back were delighted to see two deer chase between groups of walkers and fly over the dyke and bounce away up the field.  I was too slow to get a reasonable photo of them but we were rewarded very soon afterwards when another deer followed the first two and I got a couple of ‘so-so’ shots of it.

It was really good to cross the field cleared of last year’s maize crop – so much easier than going around the field when the crop is at full height!  We turned down into Lady Bay instead of up and away from it as we have done in the past and then crossing the bay over the sandy beach before leaving it for another track.

The walk was completed by road, uphill past Clachan Hill Farm, then downhill into Kirkcolm. Drivers were now ferried back to Corsewall to collect the cars.  A testing but visually delightful walk was topped off with tea and cake at the Soleburn cafe.  Some of us carried on walking, opting not to sit and wait for the drivers.  I walked with Isobel who was now struggling to walk with two very sore knees, brought on, she said, by the Country Dancing she had enjoyed all last weekend at Pitlochry.  She and I were delighted when Mary slowed down to pick us up, her car not having been needed to ferry any drivers and we got to Soleburn long before more of the party.  Then we were delighted to meet Irene who had been waiting for us.  We had not seen her for a very long time following an operation in February.  We sat with her, enjoying her company until the other walkers arrived and we dragged all the new tables and chairs together, making a jolly crowd with lots of noise!  We put all the furniture back afterwards and cleared the tables.  We complimented the new managers of the tea room on the quality and quantity of their cakes – we shall go there again!

Scoops Reports 2012 - 3 March 2012 Wigtown – Bladnoch circular

3 March 2012 Wigtown – Bladnoch circular  Report by Cath Birkett

(All captions welcome)

The promise of wet and misty weather did not put 16 ramblers (Cath, Frances, Richard, Andrea, Jim, Ken, Sue, Margaret, Audrey, Linda, Peter, John, Mary (from Cairnryan), Charlotte, Pam (WW’s niece) and a potential new member, Alex, who came with Pete) off their Saturday walk, and their constancy was rewarded with a fairly warm and sunny day.  We were joined for a short while by Mary Sloan who stayed with us until we reached the Old Station House. The weather was much better than that forecast and I soon regretted donning my waterproof trousers except that they did, at least, save my trousers from getting more mud added to that caked on them last Tuesday.  My jacket was removed for a while until we stopped for lunch when it was a bit exposed to the wind which stayed with us until we got back to the cars.
A circular walk around Wigtown began at the County buildings and proceeded down Bank Street, out through the portals of the old east gate, to the churchyard where many viewed the pre reformation church which was used until the mid-1800s. The inscriptions on the graves of the martyrs, Margaret Lachlane and Margaret Wilson, caused great interest.  They endured a watery death at the stake in 1685, for adhering to their Covenanting faith and refusing to swear allegiance to the king.
Interest on the opposite side of the road was found in a stone carved with a cross in the garden of ‘Croft-an-Righ’. This is thought to be the site of a Dominican monastery, founded in 1247 by the mother of John Baliol, Devorgilla. The only lingering memory of this now is in the names of the surrounding area - Friarland, Monk Hill, and Friar’s well.
Passing to the end of the lane, the walkers took the path by the former harbour, where a stone memorial was erected in 1936 to mark the spot where the martyrs died. This area is no longer subject to regular tides; the river has altered its course and the harbour is now situated further south. The route for the walk went along by the old railway line and past the site of Wigtown castle where eyes were strained to see the remains, in the lumps and bumps of the marsh grass.
Leaving the old railway track by the former station house, it was interesting to see a thermometer above the door; the warm day surely was not one degree above freezing!
A newly flooded piece of wetland provided good bird watching with swans, coots, moorhens and mallards in evidence and a great flock of geese which took to the air as the walkers passed. The path skirted the reeds and arrived at the river Bladnoch , where the high level walk along the bank allowed a good view of the flotsam left by recent tides, a pair of dummy legs seeming to have got stuck in the act of climbing over a fence.
The old Bladnoch railway bridge caused an obstacle in the river walk, but all negotiated it with alacrity, and the distillery was approached with many wishful thoughts of a dram. Although the building was closed, a fortuitous meeting with the owner, well known for his Irish hospitality, provided a warming taste of twenty year old amber liquid. We were especially pleased to see Cath’s two contributions to the ‘Aspects of Wigtownshire’ tapestry displayed in the visitor centre – the tapestry is absolutely wonderful.
The company now jollied along a narrow path between the river and the leat which provides water for the distillery. This leat allows sweet water, from above the tidal limit and therefore uncontaminated by the briny sea, to be brought about a mile and a half to the works. It was dug in 1830 by the same navvies who were also paving the streets of Wigtown.
Half way down the leat the ramblers crossed a narrow walkway and Cotland woods were entered. The promises of bluebells were much in evidence, but willow catkins were the only flowers seen here today. Not far from gate where the woods were left, some fallen trees provided a good seat for lunch, with a view back to the distillery and the surrounding countryside, pretty and green in the weak sunshine.     We would have been far too early getting there if we had not had the detour and distraction at the distillery!  

Onwards and upwards the refreshed company strode, with ever expanding views over the water to the hills beyond.  A few days earlier this had been the route for the Junior Cross Country Championships for Dumfries and Galloway, and the way was still just as muddy as the runners had experienced, sometimes with mire oozing right over boots.
Not long afterwards, we came to a gate through which Cath was headed.  I told her that we had gone uphill here and she turned back, taking us the way I had said, then retracing her steps to go where she had been headed as I was wrong! Sorry Cath. 
Sheep and lambs were a distraction as fields were crossed, past Cotland Loch and over the brow of House Hill until at last the Kirkcowan road was reached, crossed, and a newly cleared lane taken, still deep with mud, skirting Kirvennie Hill and linking with Broadfield farm track over more muddy fields. By Hollybush house, Common Moss Lane was entered, a grassy track which soon brushed some of the mud from the boots.
After we had gone over the prow of the hill and headed for an ‘obvious’ gateway I suggested that we had headed to the right, sure that this time I had got it right, but I was wrong again!  There was no other gateway and we ended up at a dyke and a barbed wire fence!  We headed upwards again and went in a totally different direction from the one I had insisted was where we were to go.  I did not recognise the scenery around us, probably because we had not gone that way as this was a longer route!!  Cath was brilliant, as usual, in guiding us to the gateway which brought us out onto the Kirkcowan road along which we walked for a short way before turning off into the field and then the old lane, passing by the remains of an unfortunate sheep who had met his demise some time ago by the look of it!  Richard’s comment was ‘That’s what happens when Rambler’s can’t keep up’ – brilliant! 
The streets of Wigtown were found again via Lovers Walk and Kirkland road.  Wigtown Motor Company was the final place of interest to be passed, with its huge pile of spare car parts. This firm was originally begun as Wigtown Engineering Company, by Ronald McCutcheon, known locally as the ‘King of Speed’.  From 1946 onwards he won races on his motor cycle, including the Isle of Man TT races, he developed the ‘Buckler Special’ racing car, and also competed in power boat racing, winning the Daily Express Cup.
It was a relief to get back to the cars and removing our disgustingly muddy gaiters and boots.  Did you get your shirt muddy too Jim?!
Once back at the county buildings and boots changed, a warm welcome was given to the ramblers at Bay house where the company repaired for tea.  I had phoned ahead to the Bayview Bistro to let them know that 16 of us would be there about 2 – 2.30pm and hoped that they would have enough scones for those of us who wanted them.  The service was good (the waitresses brought a plate of sandwiches for us which, they said, would only have been thrown away otherwise – they were soon demolished by some), the natter and laughter flowed and we all seemed to enjoy yet another perfect end to a good walk!  Better than that, Andrea offered to make scones for us for after the walk in a fortnight’s time when it is unlikely that we would finish it in time for anywhere to be open for us as it will possibly be a long one (dependent on the weather).

Scoops Reports 2012 - 25 February Loch Whinyeon , Castramont Circular

25 February Loch Whinyeon , Castramont Circular  Report by Cath Birkett

Fair weather greeted 18 ramblers when they met at Knocktinkle car park, Gatehouse of Fleet, on Saturday. This was a welcome change from the dreary wet walking days of late, but still there was no sunshine.
The car park is a fairly new facility dedicated to the memory of Betty Murray Usher who died in 1990, and whose family were the proprietors of the lands through which the day’s walk would explore. Cath, Thomas, Frances, Isobel, Rachel, Jim, Ken, Mary, Sue, Debi, Jack, Peter, John, Forbes, Leslie, Florence, Audrey and a visiting walker gathered there ready for the start of a new walk.
The dyke with its electric fence gave us the first excitement of the day and many stones slipped down as we tried to negotiate this obstacle.  However, quick repairs were made after we had all got through and the fields were enclosed once again.

The immediate steep climb up Grey Hill and Benfadyeon caught out those who had not walked for some time. The way across the wet lands was not too boggy and the extensive views from the top were worth the effort. A 360 degree panorama was laid out, covering many of the hills the company had walked in the last year.  In the west, from the Mull of Galloway peeping out behind the Isle of Whithorn, to Ben John, Cairnharrow and the masts of Cambret Hill, the view continued through Cairnsmore of Fleet, before taking in bronze moorland and the forests of the Grobdale walk.  To the east, with Loch Whinyeon in the foreground, it was easy to trace an earlier outing through the Glengap forest.  I was really worried that I would be totally unfit to climb the first hill but had been spurred on by Cath who called me a coward when I suggested missing this one out and meeting them all at Loch Whinyeon!  Jim has recently been ill and is still not 100% so he was struggling as were a few others.  I found the climb better than when I had done the recce and we reached the summit fairly easily.
The route now descended to the shores of Loch Whinyeon, and the sluice gate and remains of the tunnel which used to take water to the mills in Gatehouse, were explored. The modern outflow could be seen on the opposite shore, where the water now flows eastwards, to the works at Glengap.
The other two hills and the expanse between them were negotiated well, led by Cath who did an excellent job in remembering the way to go, occasionally being put right by Thomas! 
Two more hills were climbed, Craigtype and the Fell of Laghead, the highest of the day at 292metres.
Now the hardest work was done and the company approached the Castramont walk by crossing the Laurieston road and following a forest road for some way under the Craig of Grobdale.
Once on the rather muddy path, energy was restored by a lunch break overlooking
 Castramont Burn, before continuing by bridges and walk boards to ulreoch farm road. The sound of rushing water accompanied the walkers and a rather fine waterfall fell picturesquely through the trees.
A new dry stane dyke, bounding the fields above, was a fitting reminder that Mrs Murray Usher founded the Dry Stane Dyking Association of Great Britain.

Once on the farm road, bordered by old sessile oaks, it was downhill to the Castramont woods entrance, where the walkers once again endured a steadily rising path.  Through fallen beech leaves and increasingly wonderful gnarled old coppiced beeches, the way meandered through the woods, which are maintained by Scottish Nature.

After a brief view of Castramon House well below the path, the destination of the coppiced wood – charcoal platforms - were examined. A low wall and a cleared grassy circle are all that remains of this ancient craft.
As I had expected, the climb in Castramont wood was a bit of a slog for me and for others. However, it was well worth it to get to the site of the charcoal platforms and to get Cath’s description of their history. Despite the autumnal colours being well past, we could not have found more colours on an artist’s paint palet!

Laghead Burn was crossed when the road was once more reached and the farm track past Lagg was taken for the homeward stretch of the walk. Here a heralder of spring was spotted; a lone, shiny, golden celandine glowed by the path.
A gentler walk, gradually uphill, past unused pheasant pens, and many fords crossing the burn, was followed, until the cars could be seen and approached across grassy fields, to end a varied and pleasant walk. The turn off on the track from Lagg Farm was found easily and we were left with one last effort upwards over fields to reach the cars, with relief!  It had been a really wonderful walk, one on which the walkers had never been in its entirety.
The ramblers then retired to Galloway Lodge in Gatehouse to replenish their energy. The visiting walker left us there and Debi chose to return home, not joining the rest of us in the cafe at the Galloway Lodge where most of us enjoyed drinks and cakes – all except Cath who skipped her cake as she is back on her diet.  It seemed pretty unfair that she then paid for ALL our refreshments, spending her recce money!

Scoops Reports 2012 - 11 February – Glasserton Circular

 11 February – Glasserton Circular  Report by Jim Deans

A dreich misty morning greeted the 15 walkers assembled at Glasserton church car park. The forecast was for much of the same throughout the day, but the group as usual were optimistic.  Cath, Frances, Isobel, Jim, Ken, Mary, Andrea, Richard, Audrey, Irene, Margaret, Florence, Leslie, Linda and Mary set off after Jim gave the group information on what was likely to be seen on the walk.

Blankets of snowdrops and a picturesque dead elm tree brought the group to Glasserton Mains cottages from where they headed north-west along the old drovers track.

The first point of interest was the row of derelict cottages by the Row plantation. Here the walk leader had a list of the names he'd found on the internet of the occupants of these cottages back in 1684. 

Continuing on, another old cottage complete with an old fireplace was explored. After passing Rouchan Pond the normally extensive views of the Machars were non-existent due to the mist.   Movement of cattle had muddied field entrances and mud became a prominent feature of the walk. 

I kept my camera in my rucksack all this time as the rain was light but continual.  However, I couldn’t resist using it again when we had to tackle the climb of our first gate.

Reaching Craiglemine the route now changed direction to the south-west and Carleton. Reaching Bessie Yon, another derelict house was explored. It contained a delightful old fireplace complete with pot hanger, pot, grate and oven, and although very rusty gave a glimpse of a long since past way of life. 

The track, deteriorating badly into mud, mud and more mud then led us to Bessie Yon and yet another empty cottage which we explored at length.  The kitchen looked like it might have been a later addition and the roof had been raised, evident by the addition of more levels of bricks in the chimney.  

Now an easterly route was taken over the rising undulating and boggy fells.  After carefully crossing a slippery stile over a drystane dyke the group continued upward to reach another drystane dyke. The trig point at the northern end of the Fell of Carleton stood twenty feet away, but only the intrepid few crossed the stile for a closer look. By now the rain had almost ceased, but the mist still had a damp feel to it.

Despite the slight rain the crossing of this section of moorland was still attractive but by this time my stomach was protesting and it was with relief that the Machermore’s Millstone was reached and we were able to use its surrounding rocks on which to sit and shelter and have our lunch. 

After crossing more rough undulating terrain the next objective of the Machermore's Millstone was reached.  Carved into a rocky outcrop almost a metre wide is an unfinished millstone.  

The walk leader had heard a story of its being unfinished due to the outbreak of war.  More likely is the local tradition that says the millstone was carved in the late 19th century by workmen rebuilding Carleton farm.  The outcrop of rock, known as Mill Stone Howe proved to be an ideal spot to enjoy a spot of lunch. Although the mist remained, the rough foamy tide at the Point and Lochans of Cairndoon could be seen clearly.

After lunch the outcrop known as Fox Hunt was skirted to reach Laggan Pond and Camp. Another drystane dyke was crossed to reach the top of this large promontory fort.

The amateur archaeologists in the group enjoyed identifying ramparts, ditches and the entrance.

The next section of the walk was along the cliff top overlooking Luce Bay. The unique shingle beach of Claymoddie came into regular view.  After more obstacles including barbed wire fences, dykes, burns and inoperable gates were negotiated, the farm track at Claymoddie was reached.

The route now took them inland to the crossroads of Claymoddie from where the estate road to Glasserton was accessed.  Reaching the site where Glasserton House stood, the group learned a little of its history and owners. To the rear, the outlines of the lawn terraces, blanketed by snowdrops, gave a good impression of how majestic it once was.

Now the group moved on to look at the 18th century Glasserton Home farm.  A new roof and wall have been incorporated with some of the original structure to create a grain store.  The surrounding cottages and a doo'cot also date back to the 18th century. 

We had another small peep at the past – seen inside one of the out-buildings.  From here it was a short distance back to the car park and the end of an interesting if somewhat misty walk.