Scoops Reports 2012 - 3 November Beneraird

3 November Beneraird  Report by Gordon Phillips

 

Frances, Jacqui, Leslie and Florence drove to the start of the walk, near the power station between Glenapp and Ballantrae where we met the other walkers.  Cath, Thomas came with John, a man who had walked with us a few times, years ago and who had rejoined us recently, Mary Sloan and Anne.  Rachel came with Claire and French Claire and a new walker, Dunlop who wore wellies which was probably the best footwear for the walk, as it turned out!  John came on his motor bike and Richard arrived with Jim.  Gordon had travelled by bus, as usual.  With Christine Sloan and Carl there were 19 of us setting off but our numbers swelled to 20 when Robert caught up with us later.
Wigtownshire ramblers did an eight mile circular route up Beneraird and Smyrton Hills which are just two of the many hills situated in the Glenapp area.  Twenty walkers met at the crossroads just off the A77 where there is ample car parking for the cars that came from Stranraer, the South Rhins and Newton Stewart. The leader welcomed and introduced three new members to the group and hoped they would enjoy today’s walk.
Setting off on a clear sunny but cold morning along an old farm road they passed the electricity convertor station which takes the power to Northern Ireland. The equipment hummed loudly in the quiet morning; more intrusive than the traffic on the nearby main road.
After all the recent heavy rain that has fallen recently in this part of Scotland the going was very muddy, slowing their progress until they reached the old road that takes you from Ballantrae to New Luce, a distance of some 19 miles. As this road once carried horse drawn traffic many years ago the ground was somewhat easier to walk on. The first stop was at an area described on the map as hut circles where we learnt that these were small dwelling places with low earth sides and a timber structure was erected above this. Today all that is left are several circles in the grass where the houses once stood.
It was cold and windy but sunny as Gordon led us along a track with which we are familiar but which was much muddier than when we last used it and we arrived at the top of Benaraird by mid-day. 
 Making their way up to Beneraird they met the farmer on his quad bike taking feed to the animals grazing on the hillside. This was a relief to some of the group as the beasts turned their attention to the food and ignored the walkers completely.  Once on the summit the leader pointed out several hills visible today mainly towards the Galloway ranges.
Heading down the road towards Lagafater Lodge the leader took the group to the remains of a Liberator aircraft which crashed on the hillside in 1945 resulting in 17 deaths out of the twenty that were on board on that dreadful day. The plane was on its way from Northern England to Prestwick when, in thick fog and perhaps due to the lack of reliable navigation aids, the plane hit the hill. One of the survivors crawled to the lodge to raise the alarm and when the rescue services finally got to the site they discovered two of passengers were still alive. This was made even more remarkable in that two days had passed since the accident happened. A lunch stop was taken there beside the wreckage whilst they remembered all who had perished on that fateful journey.
Our return to the main track became one of pot luck on the terrain over which we travelled!  Carl was lucky not to be sucked down to Australia when he fell forward after getting stuck up to his waist in a marshy, mossy section.  I was too late to record the event with my camera as he extricated himself pretty quickly!
After lunch they retraced their steps to the top of the pass and then crossed over a grouse moor to the headwaters of the Water of App.  A brace of Red Grouse took off noisily and swept down into the valley. After crossing the burn a short steep climb took them to Smyrton Hill with its panoramic views of the Clyde and Loch Ryan with the ferries making their way to and from Ireland.  From the summit it was a very steep descent down to Smyrton Bridge and the track back to the start.
John had been struggling a bit as we had gone upwards but felt even worse as we had a fairly steep descent back towards Smyrton Bridge.  Richard and I held back for him with concern – his knees seemed to be giving him a lot of pain.
The group thanked the leader for an excellent walk in the autumn sunshine before retiring to Stranraer for coffee and scones in “Stir It”, one of the many fine tearooms to be found in the town.
 Rachel had received a phone call to say that Mary had gone into labour and Rachel was needed to take care of their son, Luke, so she had to go straight back to Stranraer.  It was agreed that we would go to Stir It so that she could join us after collecting him.  The four of us went with Cath, Thomas, Anne, both Claire’s, Mary and Rachel, later, with her nephew.  Florence had phoned Ian who came to pick her up and we were delighted when he joined us with his tea and cake!  We heard later that Mary had a baby girl.

Scoops Reports 2012 - 31 March Beneraid

31 March  Beneraid – Big Fell  Report by Gordon Phillips

Frances, Thomas , Rachel, Catherine Makepeace, Debi and Allan Topping met the rest of the Ramblers, 18 of us in all at Ballantrae Cemetery (Peter, John, Alex, Allan, Richard, Sue, Linda, Leslie, Mary (Cairnryan), Jacqui, Gordon (our leader) and Carl who had walked down from his caravan, nearby.
Eighteen walkers met at the Ballantrae Cemetery for an 11 mile walk up Benneraird which, at 439 Metres high, is the highest of the hills on the south side of Glen App. The leader explained the route before leaving the start.
It was a lovely clear sunny morning as they left the road and followed a grassy track up to the A77.  The group crossed the main road and followed the newly tarmacked road to Auchairne and Kilwhannel.  The woods were showing signs of early spring. The group were especially surprised to note some bluebells emerging into full colour. On the way they were greeted by a lively spaniel that had to be persuaded not to join the group. Beyond Kilwhannel they followed the old drove road which at one time took you all the way to New Luce, 19 miles away. The route continued as a steady climb and they stopped briefly at a spot marked on the map as "Hut Circles".  They had to use our imagination to see what was probably an ancient settlement. The views northwards took in much of the Firth of Clyde bathed in sunshine.
We stopped for a short while and admired the views down to Ballantrae with Ailsa Craig settled into the blue sea, behind which we could clearly see the Mull of Kintyre and Arran.
The track started to rise a bit more steeply here as they made their way on towards the summit of Benneraird.
The track deteriorated soon after, with huge ruts hewn out of it by vehicles which had obviously come this way when the weather had been so much wetter.  We often had to bypass the track, making our way over relatively dry areas which would normally be very different, owing to a long awaited dry spell.
When they reached the top of the pass a small diversion was taken to the site of a war time air crash. The group followed the road down towards Lagafater Lodge and found a little wreckage in the trackside ditch. A short climb up the fell reached the crash site where the leader explained what had happened in 1945 when an American Liberator aircraft crashed here with the loss of 17 lives. One airman did survive to make his way to the lodge to summon help but it was only when he arrived there that they realised he had been unconscious for two days. Not a lot is known of what happened after this.
Once back up on Benneraird the walkers had a lunch break basking in the glorious sunshine looking out over the Solway Firth to the Isle of Man.  Once they were suitably refreshed they headed down over the moorland towards Big Fell.
Climbing over a fence nearby we turned northwards and dropped down off the hill, crossing moorland (where I, not looking where I was going, managed to put my left foot down in a moss covered bog, fell forward onto both knees and had to tug my leg back up!) before once again making our way upwards, this time to reach the summit of Big Fell.  My trousers were quite wet but they soon dried in the sunshine and light wind.
Parts of the moor were under a controlled fire with lots of smoke billowing about the sky.  A small detour to avoid the smoke took them on to Big Fell where they had another short break to take in the views over the Clyde to Arran and all the way up towards the mountains in the distance known as the Arrochar Alps.
From there the ramblers descended over some fields which were full of sheep grazing with their new born lambs and reached the old coach road which runs past Crailoch House on its way to Smyrton.  Along the way the track passed through an avenue of gnarled beech trees which provided attractive dappled shade along the open hillside. Once at the village they recrossed the A77 and made their way down the paths following the burns down the glen below the grounds of Glenapp Castle Hotel to the cars parked near to the hotel gates to end a magnificent day in the South Ayrshire hills.
Most of us went to the garden centre for drinks and cakes, sitting outside to enjoy the rest of the day’s sunshine.  Those who did not join us were John, Peter, Allan and Alex.

Scoops Reports 2011 - 6 August 2011 Beneraid from Ballantrae

Wigtownshire Ramblers 6 August 2011 Beneraid from Ballantrae

Cath, Thomas, Frances, Isobel, Mary Sloan, Jack, Richard, Carl, Peter, Linda, Jacqui, Leslie, Florence and Gordon were led by Allan Leiper from Ballantrae Cemetery.   The forecast was for rain early, dying out by 4pm but it stayed dry for a long time, which was fortunate for Cath who had forgotten to bring her boots!  She and Thomas had shorts on (as had Linda Highley) and Cath had on a thin ‘waterproof’ jacket.  Thomas opted to wear his walking sandals to keep Cath company but discarded them when we got to really boggy bits where wearing them would have been a waste of time! 

In spite of the weather forecasts, which had predicted heavy rain, fifteen ramblers assembled at the new cemetery near Ballantrae for a walk into the surrounding hills.  As it turned out the weather was quite pleasant and the air remarkably clear.  One member pointed out that the Paps of Jura were visible as a grey outline beyond the Kintyre Peninsular some 70 miles away.  Two walkers had an unusual response to the predicted wet weather.  They had decided to wear sandals rather than the usual walking boots on the principle that the water would flow out of them as easily as it flooded in!

The group set off towards Ballantrae and then turned up a narrow, grassy lane between the houses towards the A77.  The busy road was crossed and the walk continued up the road towards Lemon’s Glen and Auchairne Estate.  A steady climb soon reached Auchairne Bridge where a number of walking routes were well signposted.  The group carried on uphill on the route to Cairnryan.  On emerging from the woodland they arrived at the end of the tarmac road at Kilwhannel Farm.  The group paused to admire the extending view up the Clyde Estuary towards Arran with the Ailsa Craig standing out brightly against the grey waters and Knockdolian Fell standing proudly on the other side of the Stinchar.

From there the route continued up a grassy track which still climbed steadily round the hills at the head of Glenapp.  The route led between young conifer plantations and the track deteriorated with some areas badly flooded due to blocked drains.  Soon the group reached the watershed and were rewarded with views southwards towards Luce bay over the track leading down to Lagaferter.  A short walk over the moorland led to the summit of Beneraird where they stopped for lunch.

The views from the summit were extensive in all directions.  To the south-east the Awfu’ Hand range stood out clearly.  Further south-wards the Minnigaff Hills were shrouded with cloud which promised deteriorating weather.  In all directions windfarms arose above the moors and forests.  Five large collections of windmills were visible.  Current planning applications will, if approved, make an almost continuous line of turbines from Straiton to Portpatrick.

After lunch the walkers retraced their steps back down the track to the slopes of Benawhirter.  The first spots of rain arrived and the group speedily donned their wet weather gear. 

A short, sharp climb achieved the summit with views back to the summit of Beneraird across what looked like difficult walking conditions of peat and tussocks.  In the other direction they could just see Ballantrae, their ultimate destination.

Although there was some rain (Thomas still walked in his bare feet despite going through an area full of thistles!) it was not uncomfortable for those of us with waterproof clothing.)

The rain had now set in, in earnest and the group continued north-eastwards over the Balrazzie Fells until they reached the track on Balkissock Farm. 

Here they turned northwards and headed down towards the farm.

The stone road gave way to tarmac at Balkissock and the group trudged west and north down to the caravan site at Laggan.  They took the track through the caravan site and through the woods along the top of the bank above the Stinchar.  They were glad of the shelter provided by the overhanging trees.  It was disappointing to spot a Grey Squirrel scuttling across the track; a further expansion of their territory into the Red Squirrel sanctuary in the South West corner of Scotland.

The track rejoined the tarmac road at the West Lodge and they followed it down past the Laggan Dairy where a friendly farmer delayed his herd of cattle which were being brought in for milking until the group had passed.  A short walk brought the group to the A77.  The rain had eased now and the final uphill half mile back to the cars was briskly undertaken.  A tired but satisfied group had enjoyed the 13 mile hike.

Cath never complained although by now she was completely soaked and cold and when we eventually got back to the cars she insisted that she was OK to go to the Garden Centre for coffee.  We four went, together with Mary Sloan and Forbes (who had turned up later  meeting us when we were heading downwards, in the rain) and Cath managed to get warmer and dry out a little before leaving there for home.