Scoops Reports 2012 - 10 November Castramont

10 November Castramont    Report by Cath Birkett

Frances, Cath, Thomas and Rachel drove to the car park at Knocktinkle where we found Robert there before us.  Soon afterwards Ken arrived with Peter, Jim with Mary, Audrey with Margaret and Susan. A ‘new’ walker whose name I was told was John but which was in fact David Pride, came with Carl and Leslie – a total of 15 walkers.  Rachel was to be our leader, Cath having passed on this job to her as she was a quick walker and could keep others who wanted to surge on, in check!

On Saturday, 15 ramblers met at Knocktinkle car park, Gatehouse of Fleet, for an 8 mile walk over moorland, hills, and woodland and farm tracks. The weather was bright, but showers were forecast.  The car park is dedicated to the memory of the late Betty Murray-Usher, who, along with the Stewartry Drystane Dyking Committee, founded the Dry Stone Walling Association of Great Britain. 

Setting off over moorland towards Benfadyeon the group crossed a part of the lade made to transport water to Gatehouse-Of-Fleet.  In 1790 the water power scheme started to supply the new mills in Gatehouse as the Fleet did not provide enough. It cost £1400 and supplied 4 cotton mills, 2 tanneries, a brass foundry and brewery. The water came from the end of Loch Whinyeon through a tunnel and was canalised down the burn to two mill ponds at each side of the village. The system was extensive, originally 6.4 km long and there are over 4.6 km remains. 

Our first obstacle was a dyke which had an electric fence beside it – we were not sure whether it was live or not but could not take the chance!  After removing a number of stones from the dyke we had a good space through which to scramble and were guided under the wire – great photos!  Quick repairs were made to the dyke after we had all got through and the fields were enclosed once again.  We were led through a marshy area which we had avoided on previous walks there but we got through it quickly.  

The climb up Benfadyeon was rewarded with 360 degree views over the surrounding area which included Gatehouse of Fleet and the Solway with the Wigtown peninsula just visible. To the west threatening clouds loomed above Ben John and Cairnharrow.  Loch Whinyeon, a popular fishing destination, well stocked with brown trout, could be seen for the first time.   

This brought back memories to David who had fished there many times during the period when he lived in Gatehouse with his family from the age of 13. 

The descent from Benfadyeon disturbed a well camouflaged snipe and a couple of grouse.  On reaching Loch Whinyeon, the end of the lade tunnel and sluice gate for the water power scheme were explored. Today water is extracted from the dam at the opposite side of the loch and is now used as the local water supply.

After leaving the shore of Loch Whinyeon a short steep climb led to the summit of Craigtype where ramblers paused just long enough to don waterproofs before a heavy shower encouraged them to head downhill and back up to the highest point of the walk, the Fell of Laghead at 292m. 

After descending and crossing the Lauriston road, the forest road led to a footpath following Castramont burn. Due to the recent weather the path here was very muddy.  Lunch was taken close to waterfalls with a red kite circling above.  The burn was followed down to Culreoch farm road with a pause to admire a beautifully patterned new dry stone wall.  

The track down through the glen, sometimes around small trees, their branches low and often rooting into the ground which was usually boggy, sometimes giving us glimpses down onto the waterfall littered burn, always through orange-red bracken and always with fabulous views with autumnal colour, was littered with duck boarding and bridges – either side of which would be surrounded by almost impossibly traversable ground!  Boots disappeared often below what had been thought to be a stepping stone and trousers and gaiters became the universal colour of brown!  I was keeping close to a dyke and trying to make the most of stones alongside it to get through a particularly muddy bit, followed by Robert when I suddenly heard the sound of one stone hitting another behind me and felt some of the grungy stuff hit my legs!  I squealed and Robert couldn’t have apologized enough!  I just thought it was funny and assured him I was fine – he had thought I was out of range of his stone throwing action.  Even funnier was Cath’s response, offering my body to be lain down in front of him so that he could walk over it!

A screeching jay announced the entry of the walkers into Carstramon Wood. Bronzed fallen leaves covered the meandering path through predominantly oak woodland with many glorious, gnarled old coppiced beech trees along the way. The remains of charcoal burning platforms from the 19th century were passed. Oak was chopped and burnt here, to produce charcoal for the iron, copper and brass industry. Timber from Carstramon Wood was also used to make bobbins in the Gatehouse mills.

We reached the road along which we walked for a short while before turning off into Castramon Wood.  Its map was perused and discussed before we had another uphill track to follow.  I knew from previous visits what to expect and was able to enjoy sharing my love of this place at this time of year with Carl who was trying to record as much of it as he could.  At one time he and I were following closely behind a walker who was trailing a long piece of grass, tucked into his boot/gaiter, having obviously been noticing it for a while when, suddenly, both of us decided to put a foot on it to remove it!  It’s such a daft thing to have thought so funny but we could not stop laughing over our instinctive synchronised response!

Photography took over again and we followed Cath’s gaze and then footsteps as she headed for a dead tree trunk which was extremely rotted, broken off in many pieces, which was covered in many different fungi.  We heard shouting from ahead and had to make a move to try to catch up with the others.  Soon afterwards we reached the tree which had double trunks through which our track took us.  Then we reached the tree with the ‘bumps’ and carvings which kept many of the walkers amused for a while before heading on to find the charcoal platforms.  These were found by most of us but Leslie, who had taken a wrong turning, was missing and Thomas went off to find him.  Cath gave a bit of information about the platforms but then we had to get a move on as we knew that from here the downhill section would be difficult.  It is usually slippery down this way but now we had to contend with slippery wet leaves overlaying slippery wet ground!  No-one actually landed on his or her own backside but it was often a close call!

As we reached the road and caught up with the quicker walkers we were joined by Thomas who had found Leslie waiting at the other entrance to the wood.  He was suitably apologetic!  

Leaving the woods the walkers continued along the road to Lagg Farm passing a field of blackface tups with magnificent spiralled horns. A farm track was followed towards Laghead Farm, before crossing some fields to the car park and retiring to Galloway Lodge for tea and cakes. 

We were met by a curious flock of sheep which held their ground for a long while before moving away from the early group of walkers and then headed for the rest of us.  Carl and I were treated to the sight of these lovely looking creatures coming our way and then making a run for it!  

I phoned the cafe/restaurant to inform them of our estimated time of arrival (about 4pm) and said that 15 of us would be there.  However, after we had been sitting there for about 10 minutes, having given our orders, we realized that Susan, Audrey and Margaret had obviously decided to go straight home.  No doubt Susan was looking forward to soaking in a hot bath to relieve her knee/ankle jarring from her fall in the late morning.  As usual, she had continued walking without complaint for the rest of what was quite a long walk!

Scoops Reports 2012 - 3 November Beneraird

3 November Beneraird  Report by Gordon Phillips

 

Frances, Jacqui, Leslie and Florence drove to the start of the walk, near the power station between Glenapp and Ballantrae where we met the other walkers.  Cath, Thomas came with John, a man who had walked with us a few times, years ago and who had rejoined us recently, Mary Sloan and Anne.  Rachel came with Claire and French Claire and a new walker, Dunlop who wore wellies which was probably the best footwear for the walk, as it turned out!  John came on his motor bike and Richard arrived with Jim.  Gordon had travelled by bus, as usual.  With Christine Sloan and Carl there were 19 of us setting off but our numbers swelled to 20 when Robert caught up with us later.
Wigtownshire ramblers did an eight mile circular route up Beneraird and Smyrton Hills which are just two of the many hills situated in the Glenapp area.  Twenty walkers met at the crossroads just off the A77 where there is ample car parking for the cars that came from Stranraer, the South Rhins and Newton Stewart. The leader welcomed and introduced three new members to the group and hoped they would enjoy today’s walk.
Setting off on a clear sunny but cold morning along an old farm road they passed the electricity convertor station which takes the power to Northern Ireland. The equipment hummed loudly in the quiet morning; more intrusive than the traffic on the nearby main road.
After all the recent heavy rain that has fallen recently in this part of Scotland the going was very muddy, slowing their progress until they reached the old road that takes you from Ballantrae to New Luce, a distance of some 19 miles. As this road once carried horse drawn traffic many years ago the ground was somewhat easier to walk on. The first stop was at an area described on the map as hut circles where we learnt that these were small dwelling places with low earth sides and a timber structure was erected above this. Today all that is left are several circles in the grass where the houses once stood.
It was cold and windy but sunny as Gordon led us along a track with which we are familiar but which was much muddier than when we last used it and we arrived at the top of Benaraird by mid-day. 
 Making their way up to Beneraird they met the farmer on his quad bike taking feed to the animals grazing on the hillside. This was a relief to some of the group as the beasts turned their attention to the food and ignored the walkers completely.  Once on the summit the leader pointed out several hills visible today mainly towards the Galloway ranges.
Heading down the road towards Lagafater Lodge the leader took the group to the remains of a Liberator aircraft which crashed on the hillside in 1945 resulting in 17 deaths out of the twenty that were on board on that dreadful day. The plane was on its way from Northern England to Prestwick when, in thick fog and perhaps due to the lack of reliable navigation aids, the plane hit the hill. One of the survivors crawled to the lodge to raise the alarm and when the rescue services finally got to the site they discovered two of passengers were still alive. This was made even more remarkable in that two days had passed since the accident happened. A lunch stop was taken there beside the wreckage whilst they remembered all who had perished on that fateful journey.
Our return to the main track became one of pot luck on the terrain over which we travelled!  Carl was lucky not to be sucked down to Australia when he fell forward after getting stuck up to his waist in a marshy, mossy section.  I was too late to record the event with my camera as he extricated himself pretty quickly!
After lunch they retraced their steps to the top of the pass and then crossed over a grouse moor to the headwaters of the Water of App.  A brace of Red Grouse took off noisily and swept down into the valley. After crossing the burn a short steep climb took them to Smyrton Hill with its panoramic views of the Clyde and Loch Ryan with the ferries making their way to and from Ireland.  From the summit it was a very steep descent down to Smyrton Bridge and the track back to the start.
John had been struggling a bit as we had gone upwards but felt even worse as we had a fairly steep descent back towards Smyrton Bridge.  Richard and I held back for him with concern – his knees seemed to be giving him a lot of pain.
The group thanked the leader for an excellent walk in the autumn sunshine before retiring to Stranraer for coffee and scones in “Stir It”, one of the many fine tearooms to be found in the town.
 Rachel had received a phone call to say that Mary had gone into labour and Rachel was needed to take care of their son, Luke, so she had to go straight back to Stranraer.  It was agreed that we would go to Stir It so that she could join us after collecting him.  The four of us went with Cath, Thomas, Anne, both Claire’s, Mary and Rachel, later, with her nephew.  Florence had phoned Ian who came to pick her up and we were delighted when he joined us with his tea and cake!  We heard later that Mary had a baby girl.

Scoops Reports 2012 - 6 October Newton Stewart Circular

6 October Newton Stewart Circular  Report by Jim Deans

 Small hill by Barbuchany.

Frances, Isobel, Rachel and Heather met the other walkers in Newton Stewart: Carl, Irene, Duncan, Mary x 2, Peter, Ken, Margaret, Audrey, Gordon, Linda, Leslie, John and Jim who was leading the walk.  Jim and I did a quick recce of the Belted Galloway, a recently new restaurant at the side of the car park and then enquired of the Ramblers who wanted a scone later.  We informed the owners of this lovely venue – a dozen, we thought.
On a bright morning with a decent weather forecast, eighteen ramblers met at the Riverside car park, Newton Stewart for the walk.
The walk began by crossing the Cree at Sparling Bridge, and following the river up to Creebridge.  It's recorded that Robert the Bruce forded the Cree at this point in 1329 on a pilgrimage to St Ninians.
From here the route went through Minnigaff to Kirroughtree House. A short stop was taken for the walk leader to read out some of its history and association with Robert Burns and the Heron family.
The garden through which we were walking was full of early autumnal colour, in particular the rhododendrons and maples.
The perimeter path of Newton Stewart Golf course led up to the tenth tee where Wild Wood was accessed. The walk continued along the sometime muddy track to Bower Wood and the Old Edinburgh Rd at Minnigaff.
Carl and I lagged behind here, taking photos of the view of NS from the golf course and then of the tracks of footprints formed by the walkers as they disturbed the early morning dew!  A haze hung around the perimeters of the course which diverted us before we joined the others in the wood.  Here, the leaves were not in full autumnal colour but the bracken was in various stages of change while the floor of the wood was covered in an orange carpet.
The group now made their way to the Queen Mary Bridge, the site of the old Cumloden Woollen Mill. Now converted to upmarket flats, a millstone is still visible through one of the windows on the Penkiln side. On the bridge attempts were made to secure a wish by cleanly dropping pebbles into the wishing pot. A cheer would accompany a successful drop.
The next point of interest was Minnigaff Parish Church. The 900 year old Yew tree and the listed Heron memorial were among the many points of interest. Here the walk leader set the group the task of finding the headstone depicting an arrow piercing two ravens. This is related to the legend of the three brothers, McKie, Murdoch and McLurg trying to impress Robert the Bruce. One of the brothers shot two ravens with one arrow.  The search was successful.
I love wandering around this amazing cemetery, full of interesting memorial stones, many of which had been sculpted into beautiful shapes – some of these were not quite so beautiful as demonstrated in the one which a member of our group found – was its discoverer Audrey?
A lunch stop was taken on the banks of the Cree by the King George V and Queen Mary suspension bridge. A light shower saw a number of umbrellas produced.
Jim retraced our steps for a short way after we realized that Mary (Cairnryan) was not with the group.  She had not realized that we had left the cemetery but had met some walkers to whom we had chatted fleetingly earlier, and they had pointed her in our direction.  She was not far away when Jim met her!
After lunch the group made their way over the bridge and up to King Street. Here they learned that when the mills were in production, King Street and Arthur Street went by the names of Cotton Mill Row and the Gorbals.
A left turn at Duncree led to the old coach road which originally went from Old Hall Farm to House O' Hill. Here panoramic views of the Galloway hills were enjoyed.
The route now took a ninety degree turn south. Following drystone walls and crossing excellent stone stiles, fields of various sheep were crossed above Old Hall farm and Douglas Ewart High School to reach Corsbie road.
After entering Blairmount Park, an unexpected diversion took the group up to the trig point on Doon Hill. Very few people knew of the existence of a trig point in Newton Stewart. After encircling Blairmount Pond, the Barnkirk road and the A75 were carefully crossed.

Open fields were now crossed to begin the ascent to the mobile phone mast above Barrhill Wood.

Arriving at the mast a tea/coffee break was taken. The view of Newton Stewart from this point truly shows the town to be the Gateway to the Galloway Hills. The good weather allowed most of the hills of the Minnigaff range to be identified.
It is from here and down towards the Cree Valley that I always love the views and I took just as many photos as usual – Carl was busy recording the view with his video camera – we had to hurry to catch up again!
The descent eastwards afforded wonderful views of the Cree Valley. After crossing the embankment of the old railway line into Newton Stewart, an old metal gate was climbed and the riverside walking and cycle path accessed. From here a lovely riverside stroll brought the group back to the start point.
Tea, coffee, scones and other culinary delights at the Belted Galloway completed a very enjoyable day.
I think the only walker who did not partake of refreshments here was Peter who was anxious to get back to Bella, his dog, so that he could have another walk!  Despite asking for a dozen scones to be set aside, when the group saw the selection of cakes available, many of them had a change of mind!  The owners were very accommodating and made sure that we had plenty of tea and coffee – we shall go there again!