Scoops Reports 2011 - 15 October Castle Kennedy Circular

Wigtownshire Ramblers 15 October Castle Kennedy Circular

 The ramblers met on Saturday, barely fitting into the marine car park, which was congested with vehicles and caravans from the autumn shows. Nineteen members walked to the ferry terminal, crossing to North West Castle hotel to view the neglected Panels representing the connections between Northern Ireland and Galloway, with people migrating both ways, with names mixing and origins blurring. Sibyll von Halem created ‘Watermark’ in 1995 as a contribution to the 400 year celebrations commemorating the Burgh of Barony status of Stranraer.

The Garden of Friendship, into which the route now led, also has a story to tell. First laid out in the 1920s as a quiet attractive entrance to the town, it has always been a community involved garden, from first donations of plants, to the 2001 refurbishment by ‘Friends of the Garden’, guided by the ‘Beechgrove Garden’ celebrities artwork attached to the wall here.

Quickly moving through the town the walkers passed the first of the many Stair Estate buildings to be met with this day – the former Offices on London Road, an iron lampholder still arching over its gateway.

Two more members joined the company on Westwood Avenue, bringing the numbers up to 21 (Cath, Frances, Thomas, Allan, Richard, Sue, Mary Sloan, Peter Bedford, Paul, Ken, Jim, Christine Sloan, Irene, Duncan, Carl, Peter (Portpatrick), Mike, Kathryn, Jack and Audrey  cut through the Avenue, went through the trees to cross Commerce Road).

The town was left behind suddenly as the beautiful beech avenue of the ‘Approach’ was followed; the path was strewn with gold, red and russet leaves, the trees showing their glorious autumn colours to perfection.  After crossing Commerce road the woods continued to the old Stair house of Culhorn, where the family lived when the old castle at Inch was burnt down in the early 1700s. All is now demolished except for a couple of red brick walls and a great archway.

The Southern Upland Way footpath was soon joined. Culhorn Loch could be glimpsed shining through the trees and the sight of three roe deer cheered the walkers on what was proving to be a dull day, weather wise. The path became muddier. A hedged track between fields led to a lodge house on the old Military road. The railway now determined a slight detour from the original direct avenue of trees that leads to Castle Kennedy, but once under the railway bridge it was rejoined, and the first wartime remnants were seen - overgrown bases of huts and blast shelters that the grounds of the estate abound in.

The A75 was crossed and the beautifully kept main drive to Castle Kennedy Gardens was followed, alongside the White Loch. Loch Inch Castle, the nineteenth century Scottish baronial house, was viewed over the water. It replaced the old seventeenth century ruin which could also be seen directly ahead amongst the trees, on the peninsula between the White and Black Lochs.

Although the weather remained dreary, the rain just held off whilst the Ramblers had lunch by the canal which joins the two lochs.

The walk now left the Southern Upland Way and contoured around the Black Loch, along a track bordered by exotic trees and rhododendrons, some of which were flowering, deceived by the mild wet weather. After crossing a bridge spanning a narrow part of the loch, another drive was followed giving a good view of the west side of Loch Inch Castle.

The outfall of the loch continues on to enter Loch Ryan near Innermessan but the walkers left the burn and track to climb a grassy hill which gave good views over the surrounding countryside. Another track led to the A751, joining up with a farm road through High Balyett, and crossing the line of the old Cairnryan railway, picked out now only by small embankments and hedge lines. By the gate a lone remnant was found – a single iron rail.

The shores of Loch Ryan were soon reached and whilst some walkers were transported back to Stranraer in waiting cars, others opted to walk along the cockle shore, just arriving back before the rain began and rejoining the company for welcome refreshments at ‘Stir It’ tea rooms. Cath and I opted to walk, along with others, including Sue, so we got to Stir It sometime after most of the walkers!  Beth had saved my scone – bless her – and I told Cath I would pay for her coffee.  However, I had to borrow the money off Thomas to do so as I didn’t have enough in my purse!  Clever eh?! 16 of us were having drinks and cakes – Allan, Audrey and Jack didn’t join us.

It had been a varied and most enjoyable walk, a pleasant way to spend a day of dismal weather. Wales was playing France in the Rugby World Cup semi-final in NZ this morning and I wore my Welsh rugby shirt and pinned a Welsh map on my rucksack.  Despite this Wales lost!

Scoops Reports 2011 - 8 October 2011 Garlieston

Wigtowshire Ramblers 8 October 2011 Garlieston

Sixteen ramblers including two potential new members, Peter and Marie, who moved from Wiltshire to Newton Stewart, met at the village hall in Garlieston on Saturday for an eight-mile linear walk to Innerwell Port and back.  This walk is part of the core paths network that local councils have compiled and copies can be accessed via the Ewart Library.  Cath, Thomas, Frances, Marilyn, Rachel, Peter and Marie, both Marys, Jim, Paul, Ken, Audrey, Jack, Duncan and Irene met near the village hall in Garlieston.

Beside the hall on our way to the beach a commemorate slab of granite stands denoting the 50^th anniversary of the end of World War II 1945-95 where the building and trials of sections of the ’Mulberry Harbour 1941-44’ at Garlieston took place thus making the invasion of Europe possible and an allied victory a reality.

As we headed north via tracks and fields from the little port of Garlieston in the quiet calm of the morning, it was inconceivable to think in addition to the activities pertaining to the war effort that Garlieston was also once a busy stop on the Galloway to Glasgow to Liverpool shipping route.

Veering east towards Eggerness Point the path circumnavigates a field towards a gate into the woods where views across Wigtown were hazy but, looking down to the craggy coastline past Browns Hole to Port Wapple, we could see what is marked on the map as war remains.  A detour was made to the shoreline where three concrete floating pontoons ‘code named’ Beetles were identified as part of the floating harbours, which had other peculiar names such as Hippos and Whales.

Returning to the path through the woods the mild weather had enticed ‘the midge’ to make a late appearance but as we drew nearer to the coast again they disappeared.  It was fairly boring, following one another in single file along a very muddy track and conversation was difficult.  The remains of a promontory fort were observed on the headland just before Port McGean and several trees had been blown over the path by the recent strong winds.

On passing Jutlock Point the path descends towards Innerwell Port where lunch was taken on the beach.  Our chatter coming through the woods had attracted the lady of the beautiful stone house at Innerwell, who came out to greet us and was very informative about the ice house and its connection to the Fishery that used to be there. We stopped for lunch on the beach where we were bothered a bit by flies but they weren't too bad.

A seal also gave us a curious glance from the bay and our return journey through the woods was interrupted only by two men and their dogs.  A fine drizzle had started by the time we reached Garlieston but what a perfect day for a coastal and woodland walk.

There was nowhere in Garlieston for all of us to go for drinks so our car load – Cath, Thomas, Rachel, Marilyn and I - travelled to Glenluce where we had tea/coffee and cakes in the golf club.  I ate a WHOLE piece of almond slice which was wonderful.

Scoops Reports 2011 - 24 September 2011 Ballantrae – Glenapp

Wigtownshire Ramblers 24 September 2011 Ballantrae – Glenapp

A lovely sunny morning saw eighteen walkers gather at Ballantrae Cemetery Car Park for the walk. Isobel, Frances, Duncan, Forbes, Audrey, Carl, John, Florence, Linda, Leslie, Paul, Jim, Ken, Peter Duncan, Irene, Douglas, Mary and Christine Sloan met for another Ramblers walk.  This was to be on the section of the Ayrshire coastal path from Ballantrae to Glenapp. The walk began by heading back towards Ballantrae before turning south by the standing stone at Garleffin.

Along this first tarmac section, ornate griffins topped the gateposts of Kinniegar farm, white cockerels strutted at Downan farm and sheep grazed lazily at Langdale. A gradual rise saw the end of the tarmac.  Looking back, Ailsa Craig, Knockdolian, Bennane Head and Ballantrae created a wonderful watercolour backdrop.

A kissing gate now gained access to the slopes of Downanhill.  A sign on the gate read poetically:

Be ye Man - or Bairn – or Wumman,

Be ye gaun – or be ye comin,

For Scotland’s Pride – no Scotland’s shame,

Gether yer litter – and tak it Hame!

Distant views were affected by solar haze, but the outline of Ireland could still be made out.

After rounding Downanhill the path now crossed Wilson’s Glen. A few late wild flowers still added a little colour.   Cattle grazed unconcerned by the trespassers. Here and there were patches of various fungi.

Out in the busy North Channel ferries were in constant view.  Two ramblers spotted a marine mammal breaking the surface.   The possibility of it being a whale was discussed, but no further sightings were made. 

A long stretch of undulating slopes now saw the group reach the rocky hill known as Donald Bowie. The path now went inland for two hundred yards to reach the track hewn out of the rock that leads down to Currarie Port.  This is where the Moyle Interconnector, an undersea cable links the electricity grids of Northern Ireland and Scotland. The Auchencrosh converter station is close by.  Back in the 18th century, tea and brandy were amongst the goods smuggled ashore here. In this tranquil setting amongst the rocks a leisurely lunch was taken.

After lunch the path now led inland along the flow of the Shallochwreck Burn.

Looking back to the hill Donald Bowie, an intriguing maze like pattern had been cut out of a large patch of gorse. A number of theories failed to resolve the reason for this ‘Artwork’. 

A ruined cottage below Craigmore Hill led to Craigans where a farm track was followed. The track now circled Penderry Hill crossing in turn the burns of Black Glen, Nickalogie and March.  Views over to the North Rhins opened up where Milleur Point and Corsewall lighthouse could be easily identified.  Fast ferries made sweeping wakes entering and leaving Loch Ryan. 

After passing between the hilltops of Blarbuie and Sandloch a long downhill section followed.  Steadily turning north east and following the Water of App, the Bridge of Mark heralded the end of the walk.

 A perfect walking day was topped with tea and cakes at the Ballantrae Garden Centre café.  Isobel, Duncan, Forbes, Audrey, Carl, Paul, Jim, Ken, Peter Duncan, Irene, Douglas (?), Mary, Christine Sloan and I sat outside in the sunshine (disappointingly, there was no almond slice so I had a scone instead!).

Scoops Reports 2011 - 17 September 2011 Buchan Ridge & Merrick

Wigtownshire Ramblers 17 September 2011 Buchan Ridge & Merrick

The forecast for the day threatened showers so the 17 walkers who had assembled at Bruce’s Stone car park were keen to get started on what was to be, for some, a long and satisfying day’s walk.  Isobel, Frances, Joanne, Andrea, Carl, Florence, Leslie, Brian (leading), Gordon and Debbie arrived at Bruce’s Stone car park looking forward to a good long walk!  There were loads of other people I did not know except for one person who had been on a Portpatrick walk with us ages ago, plus Catherine from Port William who had walked with the Ramblers a couple of months ago. The group turned off to walk upwards beside Buchan Burn making good progress towards the Buchan Ridge.  It was soon afterwards that they split into two parties, one reaching and enjoying the scenery at the top of Buchan Hill and the other pushing on upwards.

I knew that Brian planned to include the Buchan Ridge in our walk and that he was not keen to be going from one loch to another as the route would be water logged!  He announced that he intended going up Buchan Hill, having lunch by one of the loch’s (have not worked out how he would have done this yet) before heading up the Merrick.  We set off at a fast pace, some of the walkers I did not know (I think some of them may have come with Gordon, from Ayrshire) helping to push the group on leaving Brian with the slower walkers.  Catherine soon lagged behind and Carl stayed back with me as I tried to encourage her.  Brian waited with Florence and Isobel until we had caught up and I told him that I would go to the top of Buchan Ridge with Carl and Catherine and then we would make our way back down.  We eventually reached the summit but dropped down below it to have our lunch where it was more sheltered, about 12.15pm (much earlier than the rest of the group would be having theirs!) and we had brilliant views of the lochs below us.

There was the occasional very light shower on the ridge but an early, leisurely lunch was enjoyed by those opting for time for photography and appreciating the views opening up below them of many lochs – Neldricken, Valley, Narroch, and Long and Round Lochs of Glenhead, and across to the Rig of Jarkness and beyond.  So far the walk had been fairly easy but the scramble down from the hill towards Gairland Burn redressed the balance – to say nothing of losing their balance occasionally, necessitating their descent on backsides occasionally, amid much hilarity and exclamations! We started to get cold so decided that we would head down from there to pick up the Five Lochs track and had a really horrendous descent – steep, tussocks, rocks, deep holes with water in them, heather, bracken, all conspired to make our downward journey a difficult one.  However, we laughed as we fell, Catherine spent more time on her backside than in standing.  The path they eventually reached looked at times much like miniature waterfalls and a lot of care was taken in negotiating it back down to the forest road before heading uphill to Bruce’s Stone, the sun shining and the rain having completely disappeared. It was a tremendous relief when we got down to the track even though we now had a long way to go along a rocky, boggy path.  Catherine was shaking with the exertion – NOT with fear she told us!  She was great fun to be with and she certainly needed her sense of humour today! 

Meanwhile the other group moved on steadily, working their way along Buchan Ridge and up beside a gully, pausing to look upon the rocky outline of the face of the ‘Grey Man of the Merrick’.  It was a hard slog up this section to get to the summit of the Merrick, stopping just below it for lunch, giving them enough energy to continue! On reaching the cairn and trig point (843m) at the top, what little mist there had been earlier had evaporated.  The clouds floated by as the views opened up and all of the Five Loch’s, plus many more lay below them and the Galloway Hills and beyond were seen in amazing detail. 

It was an easy stroll for a while after leaving the summit but a short climb back up brought the walkers to Ben Yellary from where Ailsa Craig and the Ayrshire coastline became more prominent.  Following the descent from there, they ignored the pathway down towards Loch Trool and started to negotiate the boggy area, worsened by recent rain, to reach the rocky slopes of Benane with its scattering of lochans. After their descent from there and reaching the forest road the group split into two, one of them opting to walk a short while along the road, turn off to follow the ‘Merrick’ track, past the bothy at Culsharg and to follow Buchan Burn down to Bruce’s Stone.

The other group had an exhilarating scramble down the Fell of Esconcan which they all agreed added an exciting end to a wonderful walking day as from here the views of Loch Trool and its surrounding hills were ‘tremendous’!

Scoops Reports 2011 - 27 August 2011 Cairnsmore of Casphairn

Wigtownshire Ramblers 27 August 2011 Cairnsmore of Casphairn

Cath, Frances, Thomas, Isobel, Rachel, Florence, Jacqui, Linda, Leslie, Jack, Shona, Elizabeth (Derek’s ‘The Alps’ wife), Paul, Sue, Colette (not seen her for ages!) and Brian, who was leading, met in NS.  We drove in convoy through New Galloway and St. John’s Town of Dalry and Carsphairn, turning off onto the B729 soon afterwards and being joined by Gordon who had come from a different direction.  We came onto a minor road and parked close to Craigengillan where the farmer came out to talk to us.  We thought he was going to move us on but he said that the logging had finished in the area and we were OK to park there.  He advised us to take the track up through the forest but Brian had other ideas! 

Meeting up at Craigengillan on Saturday morning, seventeen ramblers prepared for a long day in the hills, climbing Benniner and Cairnsmore of Carsphairn. The weather looked fair but storm clouds were never far away and the temperature was alternately warm and cold as the sun went in and out of the clouds.

The walk began at the shepherds cottage, across the road from which are the ruins of a mediaeval village, showing how this lonely place was once a thriving and populated area. The forestry has recently finished clearing sections of land here, and the roads were clear of logging traffic, allowing the walkers to keep up a good pace until reaching a ruined bridge where the track to Moorbrock became obscured. A boggy crossing of tussocks and sphagnum moss led to the old home of Tammas Murray, the shepherd poet, who occupied Moorbrock some time ago. The story of another shepherd who became ill was related; he was operated on in the house, and then needed fourteen men to relay him, on an improvised stretcher, to the road end at Craigengillan to meet the ambulance. The house and steading are now neatly kept holiday homes.

A new forest road continued through a water splash and wound round below Green Hill, passing by high deer stalking platforms. The route then took to the rough ground between trees and across the Poldores burn. Faint motor bike tracks were followed through the grassy and not too boggy skirts of the first objective, Beninner (710m). The easy part of the day was now replaced with a near vertical ascent of the hill, between screes, hanging on to grassy tufts and bare rock with hand and foot, whilst contending with the only shower of the day. The view below as the climb proceeded was dizzying; the ground fell away revealing the great expanse of desolate pastures contained beneath these hills.

Once on the rock strewn high plateau the going was easy and a short walk to the summit cairn was achieved with great relief. (However, for those of us who were trailing the relief was short lived as we only had a short stop before trying, in vain, to catch up with the others!) Two of the Striding Arches of Andy Goldsworthy were visible in the distance. These are a challenging subject for a future walk – erected in 2005, they form a series of red sandstone arches each with a span of about seven metres, built on the hilltops around Cairnhead.

A fresh breez e meant that the summit of Beninner was forsaken and a late lunch was eaten in the lee of the hill above the Nick of the Lochans. From here it was a stroll down to a boundary fence and up onto the top of Cairnsmore of Carsphairn (797m). A big cairn, separated by a few yards from a shelter, with the Ordinance Survey pillar, complete with its flush bracket, was the high point of the day. The views were phenomenal. From the Rhins of the Kells, the Awful Hand of the Merrick, Ailsa Craig and the sea, the lochs of Macaterick, Riecawr, Bradan and Doon, Ayr town, then the windmills around the well named Windy Standard, to the Moniaive hills and even across the Solway to Skiddaw; it was a 360 degree panorama.

Gordon took over from here for a while, taking us away from the summit, down a lovely slope for a while and then the going got really dreadful!  We slithered down over long grass and heather, had to watch out for holes beside large rocks and took ages getting down to another awful section.  This was over boggy, tussocky grass, for a long time, until we reached the Polifferie Burn and waited for others to catch up.  We followed the burn for a while, crossed it and then made our way to have a look at Clennoch Bothy for which we had made a huge detour.*

A ridge walk, followed by a very steep descent, then again through bogs, tussocks and deep, black peat, booby traps, to the Bow burn, led to the tidy bothy of Clennoch and a well earned rest whilst the building was explored.

Near this spot is the crash site of a local man, David Hunter Blair, who flew a spitfire into this remote hillside in May 1942. His plane was named ‘Blue Peter’ after a Derby winner. The children’s programme of the same name sent their presenter, John Lesley, here to record the event in 1997, and the Dumfries and Galloway Aviation group conducted a search of the area to find the crash remains. There is now a memorial plaque affixed to a boulder marking the site.

It was now a short walk to a new forest road, not yet on the maps, which was followed, up and down hill, until once more the cars were reached by the weary group.  The challenge of the long walk had been appreciated by all.

This meant we had a four mile trudge along the forest road back to the cars – going eventually passed Moorcroft holiday cottages where we stopped for a short break to drink some water – many of the walkers had gone on ahead.  We managed to avoid the worst of the boggy area through which we had gone towards the start of the walk and then I had to stop to put a blister plaster on my big toe before I could face the rest of the hard surfaced track to the end of the walk.  We arrived at 6pm, almost half an hour after most of the other walkers!

Scoops Reports 2011 - 20 August Stinchar Bridge Circular

Wigtownshire Ramblers 20 August Stinchar Bridge Circular

 Jim’s photo Cow Craig

A hired minibus brought the majority of today's walkers to the walk start at Stinchar Bridge. Guest walkers from Ayrshire and one from Stirling made the numbers up to twenty three. Duncan valiantly drove the minibus which initially carried Elaine, Frances, Isobel, Irene, Allan, Peter, John, Audrey, Jacqui, Susan and Pam (who lives the other side of Glasgow but who comes to Stranraer every third weekend).  When we set off I was sitting next to the window but found that I was sitting over the wheel and was feeling every bump.  I moved to sit next to Pam.  I found out that she was renovating (with her husband) the house left to her in Loch Ryan Street by her uncle who had died a couple of years ago, aged 99.  She said he had cycled until he was 93 and I asked if his name was Willy Wallace.  It was!  I told her that I had done Scottish country dancing with him for years, that he was a great dancer and that he had also danced with Elaine and Isobel!

We stopped to pick up Ken at his road end before going into Newton Stewart.  Mary was the only one who joined us there, leaving Jim, Paul and Catherine (father’s house in Kirkcowan) follow on in Jim’s car.  When we eventually got to Stinchar Bridge after a long and bumpy ride we met Carl, Gordon, Christine and three Ayrshire walkers two of whom had walked with us before – both David’s plus Marlene.  We were a total of 23 walkers, much to our surprise. 

The walk began along the tarmac road eastwards which eventually becomes the forest drive through to Loch Doon. After one kilometre the bridge over the River Girvan was crossed. The source of the Girvan and the Stinchar are close by on the slopes of Ayrshire's highest hill, Shalloch on Minnoch.  After crossing the bridge a stony uphill path was accessed. Now heading south-east they reached the end of the path and took to the heather. Here there is a feature marked on the map as Peden's Hut. Alexander Peden was one of the leading forces in the Covenanter movement and preached extensively in the area. He'd often find rocky outcrops with small hidden dales or glens to hold his 'Conventicles',naway from the prying eyes of Claverhouses troops.     

  As height was gained, so the views opened up. The day was a mixture of sun, cloud and breezy and Lochs Braddan and Skelloch were the first stretches of water to make an appearance.  An undulating climb and sometimes boggy ground brought them up to Cow Craig, the first of a number of rocky peaks reached today. With no discernible path the walkers now made their way over wispy tussocky grass, ling and bell heather to reach Rowantree Craig. Here a time out was taken to appreciate the magnificent views to the east. Winding between Lochs Riecawr, Brecbowie and Goosie was the forest drive where the vehicles looked like toy cars and the distant peaks of Cairnsmore of Carsphairn and the Rhins of Kells were crowned with mist and cloud.

 After a distribution of sweets it was onward and upwards. Sticking as much as possible to the high ground of a crescent shaped ridge, Shiel Hill (508mtrs), the highest point of today's walk was reached.  From the triangulation pillar the Ayrshire coastline and Lochs                         

Macaterick and Slochy added to previously mentioned  views. Far distant views were obscured by mist.                        

After another 500 metres of heather and tussocks a rocky outcrop above the Nick of the Strand was designated as today's lunch stop. Sheltered from the wind and high above Loch Riecawr the sun emerged and welcome refreshments were taken.

After lunch and with Craigmashinee before them they descended into the Nick of the Strand. Here a trapped 'Happy Birthday' balloon was released and was last seen heading eastwards high above Shiel Hill.

 Now began the trickiest section of the walk. A flat tussocky and swampy section of around 700 metres lay between where the group had descended and Cornish Loch. In the middle looking like an oasis in the desert was a raised section, which would be the first target.

Quite a number of oh's and ah's were heard as steady progress was made. One walker fell up to her waist but was none the worse for the mishap. Light hearted banter spread throughout the group. We had to go through some fairly tussocky, boggy ground, with hidden water holes which Susan found twice!  She was very chirpy about both incidents and she certainly gave us a lot of entertainment!

After a regroup on the 'oasis', the outlet of the River Girvan on Cornish Loch was finally reached. Here a makeshift bridge was repositioned to make the crossing a little easier for some of the walkers. We crossed over the burn using a couple of lengths of wood repositioned by Jim who helped the straggling walkers to negotiate it. 

Once on terra firma, a zigzag path was followed to the summit of Cornish Hill from where Ailsa Craig was now visible.  A bright open descent down the well worn path brought them past the Crawberry Rock and to the ruins of Craiglour Lodge on the banks of the Stinchar. A plaque states that "Catherine Lawson was born here 11th November 1940". The sun was now shining brightly and a number of walkers seemed reluctant to leave this idyllic lovely spot.

The last section through the forest, the picnic spot and the tumbling waters above Stinchar Bridge brought to an end a unanimously agreed lovely walk. 

 I stopped to take photos of the waterfalls near the picnic tables before rushing to catch up with the others.

We settled back to face the long and tiring drive back to Stranraer with no stop for tea and cakes at Glenluce as had been hoped – we were too late as Duncan had to  take the bus back -  getting to the car park by 5pm.  Duncan had had a real struggle with driving the bus which had many quirks and we gave him a cheer when we arrived and all agreed that we would NOT be using it again! MANY, many thanks Duncan!